120 thoughts on “Your First 3D Printed Mini: Orc Fighter (Beginner Friendly)

  1. Hey danny. Im getting warp from my pla. Iv tried playing around with nozzle and bed temps but still gettinf warp. Any suggestions please? Im using the ender 3 fyi

    1. TechnoGeek 3D I also print to the cr10 glass straight and add hairspray now and then. To compensate for ever-so-slight warp in my printer’s bed I just make sure my initial layer is sufficiently thick to lay down a good first layer

    2. TechnoGeek 3D tried blue tape which just unsticks and messes everything up and magigoo stuff which kinda works but still gettin warp at the edges of both the models and the raft. Definatly think glass is needed. What is better a pane of standard glass or that bosilicate glass?

    3. I just want to say that I’m so proud of this thread. This video has barely been up for an hour or two, and already so many folks have stepped in to help. You guys are awesome.

      Grove, I know you may have tried some of this but here are some things that have worked for me in the past:
      1) Definitely hairspray like TechnoGeek said. This has worked really well for me on a glass bed though — I’d be terrified to do it on my Ender 3 because the build plate works TOO well for me. If it isn’t working at all, it might do the trick. Just be sure to clean it — it can get messy quick.

      2) Have you tried different PLA brands?

      3) Have you tried heating the bed a bit higher? I’ve seen some folks heat up their bed to 70 to get a good stick (even for PLA — which in theory shouldn’t require a heated bed, I know!)

      4) A glass bed like PeanutButter HulaQuest (what a name) suggested is a really common upgrade. I’ll be bringing it up for sure in my review, and it wouldn’t be a bad idea to give it a shot.

      I hope that helps! Let us know how it goes.

  2. One thing I found helped me with my minis is setting the support distance to 0.3mm. This made it super easy to remove supports and gave the model minimal scarring!

    1. When I set my z distance to even 0.2mm I get failed parts. That’s amazing! Do you have any pics by chance? Would love to see how yours turn out — might have some stretch goals after that 🙂

    2. I actually shared my elven ranger (green) and dragonborn wizard (poorly painted :D) on your facebook post in the 3D Printing group! 😛

    3. I did the same only I went with 0.2 for the bottom distance. I have not tried 0.3 at the bottom yet but I’ve had no issues removing it so far.

    4. TechnoGeek 3D Use a prime pillar to allow your print to cooldown a bit (and reduce the temp) smaller features gets hotter faster and filament/print fans don’t help much, slower travel speed is a good thing (since it didn’t need to go far) I use slic3r to get small prints since(I think) it has better speed control like small-print slower, big-print faster.

    5. TheDarkWolfy I use less than .2mm and supports is easy to remove.
      If you use pei bed sheet it’s easier to get 1st layer laid out correctly (the result is better support removal) a lot of times I see people print squished 1st layer, or over extruded the 1st layer to avoid warping, I think most slicer treat interface layer (the layer between support, and the model) like your 1st layer, so squished 1st layer/over extrusion will get you harder to remove support.

    1. Thanks for the feedback, Booze! I just recently changed my setup — I got a new camera that allowed me to cut down my editing time big time. I’m still using the same mic, just without the video though, and did a few tests. The audio is also being pushed out stereo instead of mono, and one side is slightly louder than the other — but the overall levels were actually higher than the last few videos. I also turned the music down some based on some feedback I’ve gotten the last few videos. I appreciate your comment — I’m gonna take another look or just go back to mono. I think that would fix things being different per se.

    1. Tell your slicer to print a brim or a skirt, and when it starts printing, turn the speed waaay down. You can fine-tune the leveling at this point, using the lines it is printing, to make sure they’re squished against the bed, but not _too_ squished. Then you can crank the speed back up. It takes some practice, but I’ve found doing this fine-tuning while it is getting started really helps.

  3. I m really glad i ve found your channel right when i started printing minis!
    btw when you set the Z support distance cura divides it by the layer height and round it (i don t remember if up or down) so with 1.2 Ztop and 0.8 layer height you might be printing with one (0.8) or two (1.6) «missing» layers between model and support, i think 0.8 is not enough and will make support material stick to the model! i m playing around between 1.6 and 2.4, it depends a lot on the PLA brand, the hotend temperature and how good is your cooling part fan/duct

    1. Thank you so much for the kind words. I’ll have to take a look — but I’ve never heard that about z support distance dividing by the layer height and rounding. Do you have a source? My z distance is also 0.1mm stock, and I usually bump it up to 0.12mm to help a bit. Great job testing with your PLA — that’s important to get great results for sure 🙂 Thanks again for your comment, Davide! Happy to have you here.

    2. just checked, it s rounded up, it s in the option description: just enable the option in cura and move the cursor over «support Z distance»
      an other thing i would suggest is to print at low infill (15-20% is ok) but with 3 shells instead of 2, would improve speed on larger minis without sacrificing strenght at all.
      this makes a 1.2mm thick shell, everything smaller than 2.4mm diameter (arms, legs, weapons etc) get 100% filled, only bulky parts are hollow.
      keep up the good work! 🙂

    3. this last part obviously imply to remove that 99999 top layer thing so you can actually use infill 😉 this way you are just tricking the printer to make only shells

    1. For sure! It wasn’t too bad actually — looked scarier than it was 🙂 For more complicated prints though, I’d even go as far as splitting the entire model in half. I know a few years ago it was common for folks to do that since entry-level FDM’s weren’t quite where we’re at today.

    1. Thanks Nick! You are part of the reason I decided to start this series. I hope it’s the kinda thing you’d enjoy coming back to see 🙂 Thanks again for caring enough to comment. Have a great weekend, man!

  4. I’d like to point out that for the layer height, rather than picking simple values like 0.08 or 0.05 or something, you should look up the magic numbers for your printer and use a multiple of that for better prints.

    1. Absolutely — in fact, that ruined print? It was a difference between 0.06mm and 0.04mm. I’d never had an issue with it before — and when I started getting that quality print, dropped it down to the nearest magic number for my Ender 3 — and boom. The rest is history. Thanks for your comment, Eric!

    2. Davide Sangiorgi no, I mean the stepper motor layer height magic numbers. The printer basically has a certain «minimum» step height for layer heights that generally corresponds to one full turn around its screw for the z axis. Each of these turns is the step interval.

      Putting a layer height between these steps is generally a little less accurate, and especially when you’re working with very small heights (especially under the usual recommended minimum by the manufacturer of like 50 or 100 microns depending on the printer) being as accurate as possible helps a lot

  5. Great video , so need to have another go at minis as only tried when I was new to printing a couple of years ago so printed deep fried minis :p.

    1. Aah, the «dark ages» of 3D printing lol 😉 You can probably print up some kind of a Necromunda game with everything online! I think some of Dutchmogul’s stuff might transition, ya think?

    1. 3D Maker Kid I had this problem too! Try changing the view from solid to layer, it should reveal your support structures in this mode. If that doesn’t work, perhaps double check that you have support selected in the options — sometimes I just forget to select it 😛

    2. Okay, a few questions: Is «show helpers» checked off in layer view? And someone posted this in a thread last year: «To resolve this I had to «Expert» file menu and open expert settings.. I adjusted the value for «Overhang angle for support (deg).» My default was 75.Changed to 15 just to see if it would show supports and now it is showing them as I would expect.» Give that a shot, hope it helps!

    3. 3D Printed Tabletop thanks, I will try that, also my support seems to be incredibly hard to remove, and did you print this model at 100% scale?

  6. When setting layer heights, it’s a good idea to use a multiple of 0.04 (for the Ender 3 and similar Creality printers) as that is the smallest increment the bed can travel accurately. This is because the Z-axis motor (and all of the other motors, too) has discrete steps. Microstepping (turning less that one «notch» of the stepper motor) is possible, but prone to error. So use 0.04 instead of 0.05.

  7. Another thing to consider with orientation: the Z-axis has the best resolution, but the lowest strength. Layers separate from each other fairly easily. So if you have a thin part of the mini, like a weapon or a leg, aligned vertically, that part will be a lot weaker than if it was printed horizontally. Sometimes it’s worth it, though; just get used to the idea of gluing thin vertical parts back together — super glue works amazingly well on PLA.

    1. Great point! I have gotten used to gluing. I’m always trying new things to see what are some easier ways I can get clean gluing that is strong (without pinning — I’m usually too lazy for that :D)

    2. I’m just learning how to do pinning, myself. !thing tiamat for the model I have my eye on, eventually, when I have everything fine-tuned and working perfectly. But the full-body is just a little too big, and the in-many-pieces model has just way too many parts to glue. Recently I printed the in-many-pieces Forest Dragon from Thingiverse, and it doesn’t use pinning, just a bunch of very thin plane cuts, and it didn’t come out great. So I plan to take the full Tiamat model, slice off her wings, but add pins to make reattaching them trivial.

  8. Extruder calibration plays a huge deal for me personally when trying to make tiny detailed prints like minis. I like this channel but i’m not totally sure that there is a video about that yet. Dialing in steps/mm and retraction settings can really help in finer details. A tiny nozzle can help also. Theres also settings like linear advance which is particularly useful for a bowden setup

    1. Hey Jason! You’re absolutely right. I haven’t made a video about that yet, and to be honest I haven’t quite gotten very technical on this channel yet. I feel like I have a lot to learn in all of these hobbies (3D printing, painting, and crafting) and am doing my best to document and share my findings with the greater community. I really like this stuff, and it’s made me happier, so I hope to at least share that with others.

      I also feel like the big channels like Tom Sanladerer, Maker’s Muse, 3DPNerd, and 3D Maker Noob have done a phenomenal job of laying that knowledge foundation for stuff like this and nozzle clogs, etc. Tom has a video on calibrating extruders for example, and I will pretty much defer to him in that regard any day 🙂

      I just recently heard about linear advance for the first time because of the Prusa «scandal» that has happened relatively recently. Still have so much to learn. Thank you for taking the time to comment — I really appreciate it.

    2. 3D Printed Tabletop woah quick reply! I like your channel and I took some of your advice for doing detailed prints like using concentric layers and doing them solid. Great tips here explained in a easy to understand way. You’re right there are some other channels that cover it, and I have noticed that not prebuilt printers come with a way to manually extrude a certain distance of filament

  9. I’d lower the raft extra margin, it’s just a waste of plastic having it that big. I usually go with 2mm or just a skirt if I’m sure it will stick well enough without a raft.

    1. That’s a fair point. More than anything, with minis the amount is so minimal (not even 1g of plastic) that I’m usually OK with it being a bit further out which helps a bit with removal. Totally optional though!

  10. Danny try drilling a .8mm hole into the bottom of the foot and glue a paper clip into it and mount on a wine cork. This allow you to hold the cork while you paint the mini without having to touch it. Games workshop make a painting handle . i personal use old pillbottle with poster tack.

    1. An other tip for you to try is to use a small height shipping boxes to hold your paint holders just by cutting holes the diameter for your holders (make the hole are smaller so it a tight fit). in my case i have used a hatchbox filament box to hold 9 and an UPS small box hold around 20.

    2. What do you all use for gluing PLA to PLA or to metal? My orc’s foot broke off in the cleanup process and I haven’t been able to get the super glue or wood glue (Hatchbox wood filament) to stick. Maybe my super glue is too old. Thanks!

  11. wow I’ve been 3d printing my models before i found your channel and it amazes me how similar the steps we take are we even use the same guys models from shapeways

  12. I started prints for all my party members using mz4250’s models and failed a few times. This video is gonna help me improve the quality of their characters so much! thank you dude

  13. Listen to this guy on technicalities of 3d printing. For painting… Sheesh… This was tough to watch. White gloves? The handling of the mini? Washes on low polygon models? Short bristle brushes for washes? Painting the mini while its laying wobbly on the table like wtf?! So yeah, he knows plenty about 3d printing, but don’t take his painting tips to heart.

    1. @FearlessGlitch — Thank you so much for the legit feedback. It means more to me than you know. Are there any playlists for basic techniques you can recommend? I watch Miniac, Sorastro, and Kujo painting whenever I can, but they have such an exhaustive library, it’s impossible for me to see them all, and I try to paint more than I watch (which is where my bad habits came from, I’m sure). I figure now is a better time than ever to document and share what helps me (this year I’m focused on becoming a better painter above all). Thanks again for all your help — and for such a thorough response. It’s the best critical comment I’ve received thus far.

    2. I’ve no idea about youtube playlists that teach you. I learned from workshops when I was but a wee boy back in local gamestores. And from there it was all just learning by doing.

    3. I’m gonna do my homework and reach out to some of the painter friends I’ve made and see what they recommend. The next two episodes were all filmed at the same time, but I promise to take all of your feedback to heart in the videos after the next two. I understand my target audience here are different than a lot of the big painting channels, but I don’t want to share bad habits either. Thank you again for taking the time to comment — your feedback means more to me than you know.

    1. I’ve got a few «big» minis to paint and kinda scared I just won’t do them all justice ;_; It will happen sometime though hahaha 😀

    2. I know the feeling. I have a Cthulhu «miniature» from the first Bones kickstarter, and it’s huge and really highly detailed, and I’ve put it together but am afraid of painting it until I’ve put a few more points in my Craft: Miniature Painting skill…

  14. Great videos. I’ve been 3D printing terrain and minis for a couple years but haven’t had the time to YouTube my projects. I’m glad someone’s making this more accessible.

    A couple notes: For the primer, Rustoleum’s «Paint + Primer» sometimes takes a while to dry, and some say it never dries on their plastic minis. I’ve been lucky with it, but be prepared to experiment. I’ve also had excellent results with Krylon’s Fusion spray paints. I see them most often in camo colors, but that works for me when I’m priming military minis.

    For PLA and PLA+, when your mini breaks (and it will) try using acetone on each of the surfaces that will be glued. I find it makes the surface chalky when it dries. It reduced my super glue failures to zero. Acetone also works to prime other hard-to-superglue plastics, but it does discolor any plastic surface it touches, so be cautious.
    If you have small gaps that need filling, set the super glue with baking soda. It kicks the super glue immediately and the baking soda acts as a support matrix for the gap.

    1. Using the acetone as an accelerant like that sounds really great. I usually avoid super glue when possible even with the baking soda cause I can just never get it so clean like Luke and all the other tabletop mini guys. I don’t know how they do it — mine gets everywhere and is just a hot mess.

      For the primer: I don’t use the Paint + Primer — I only use regular 2X Primer. It dries within less than a minute, and if I have to pick up the mini to reposition it to get in all the different angles I can, no issues.

  15. Another outstanding video. I love how you reach out to first-timers and those who may be interested but haven’t started. Your welcoming demeanor has made it so now I just click thumbs up even before I hit play. : ) Keep being awesome!

  16. Personally, I disagree with the idea of printing a miniature either on its back or at a 45 degree angle for the sake of making the front look better and the back less so, because the back of the figure will be facing half the table at any time.

    1. That’s why I made sure to include that line of reasoning as to why I don’t normally do it either 🙂 That’s why I covered all the different options, too — I like for people to understand and then experiment on their own. Love your orcs, my man. Did you see one of them made an appearance? 🙂

  17. Excellent video.
    Would suggest doing the priming in a well ventilated area or use of breathing protection.
    Some larger prints can be done in parts. Use of cheap dollar store pack of 3 for 1 works well (for me at least).
    Use of a old pill bottle or cork or making a model holder to help control the min while you paint so you dont leave prints or smear the paint job.

  18. hey so i’ve been printing minis for about a week now and was wondering if you knew of any way to get less blobbing on smaller details which are separate from each other like hair strands since thats the only issue i’m having, also you can drop models into cura straight from sculptris as an .obj even with multple shells/parts it prints them fine for me and been using it to print my own Tyranid army based off mewtwo for most of them

  19. This is pretty funny, about 2 hours before this went live i printed my first benchy. I watched the Resin Like Quality video you posted and motivated me to get my own printer. Thanks Sooooo much!! Keep up the great videos!!

  20. I started watching these videos a few months ago, and with your older videos I noticed you rambled on, a little bit. It had great information but I felt like you repeated yourself too much. This video is great! I like the info and presentation. Good job man

  21. Nice! I like to finish my minis with a matte clear coat. I find this seals the paint from wear and possible chipping and gives a nice finished look. Make sure to go with a matte clear or your mini may look too glossy… which could be ok depending on what you’re painting. Glossy could work for an ooze or something like that.

  22. I find it easier if I use a paint stand for miniatures. There are loads of different designs on Yeggi and Thingiverse, I used rubber cement to glue them down for painting. It is easy to remove

    1. I didn’t say it 🙂 It took me about 4 hours at 0.08mm layer height. Maybe a bit longer — 4-5 hours or so. Thanks for your comment, Scott 🙂

    2. 3D Printed Tabletop I am going to try again. I have been having problem with the ender 3 following the speed in code but will try again tonight if it fails I will send settings.

    3. I figured out what I was doing wrong. I assumed the FR % on the ender represented speed but it don’t change when I thought it would the code said to. Come to find out that don’t change unless you change it manually but the speed on gcode is what it will print at. Thank you for the help!

  23. Very nice explanation. This would be an amazing video fro someone who just bought their first 3d printer and had no idea how to get started. Great job as always my man! Keep it up

  24. Thinking filament 3D printing shouldn’t be used for detailed work in the tabletop world. Except may be terrain that you can texture paint. It looks fairly awful. May be in 5/10 years technology will be better + affordable SLA may be.

    1. Hey David — I appreciate your comment. I’m certainly not the best painter, but for an idea of what can be done by someone who can paint better check out my friend, /u/GrepekEbi, on Reddit: Ссылка

      Here’s also a more difficult sculpt I recently did as well (this was also on my FDM printer). It’s probably my best paint job as an amateur painter, but a more difficult print: Ссылка?taken-by=3dprintedtabletop

      I also wanted this video to be a relatively easy project overall. It can be intimidating to see a pro level paint job when you are first starting out, and I’m certainly still an amateur painter. I’m not sure if you got a chance to see the intro, but I’m sharing my progress with these videos too and I hope I can look back on my videos in 6 months and see much better paint jobs as well (and provide a variety of prints than just this print). I’ll definitely be making a video pointing folks in other directions for the folks who want to get better at one or all of the skills at play here — be it 3D printing or mini painting.

      To be fair: I think we’re a long ways away from FDM rivaling say GW or something of the sort. There are affordable resin printers (DLP, so not quite SLA — but still very high detail resin printers) right now for about $500 that I think can rival that with the right sculpts. But I certainly think other more complicated prints (like the HeroForge model shown here) can still do pretty well in FDM for tabletop quality.

      Thanks again for your feedback — hope that helps clarify some of your points and shed some insight. Cheers!

    2. 3D Printed Tabletop it’s really not your paintjob I was thinking about. It’s more the visible lines of filaments. But yeah nice stuff on your links. Keep at it !

    3. Definitely understand that. I also printed this guy at a 0.08mm layer height, which is an easier print, but the layer lines are more visible. The one I showed was 0.04mm, and a harer model to print. Resin is still the best though, and I’ll be sharing some more of those next month as well 🙂

  25. Important tip for the painting of the mini: use real miniature paints. The cheap Walmart acrylic paints, like Applebarrel, have large grains of pigment and will not thin well or look good. Actual hobby grade acrylics (Vallejo, Army Painter, Citadel, Scale 75, Reaper, P3, etc.) have much finer pigments and thin well and give a smoother look to the finished mini (even with the finer pigments you should still thin the paints with water). More tips… Do not allow your ink washes to pool you’ll get «tide marks» on the mini, if you want to darken an area of a mini more than what an all over shade does then go over just the areas you want to darken further with another layer of the ink wash, let each layer of paint and/or wash dry thoroughly before beginning the next layer, multiple colors are fine but let each layer dry. Also after you have painted the miniature make sure to clear coat it with a matte varnish so you can handle the mini and not have the paint rub off. Oh, and when priming the mini follow basic spray painting techniques, like spraying in quick bursts and not holding down the nozzle, moving the spray can past the object to be sprayed side to side, etc.

    1. Oh and use the spray primer outside or in a very well ventilated area, and let it dry for 24 hours before bringing it into a closed environment like a house. The smell that you get from spray paint is the propellant offgasing and you really shouldn’t breathe too much of that in.

    1. Thanks! I’d use superglue for that. Since it’s probably a pretty clean break and there should be decent surface area — I’d just put the glue and push down on it for a bit, and then let gravity take over — maybe stand it up against something. Hope that helps!

  26. Hi there, (apologize for my english) i have one question. I have the same interest of yours about using 3d printer (so minis, figures exc). My budget is around thousand bucks but i might go for an affordable fdm if there’s a good one. The only priority is to have a plug&play machine. Which printer can you advice me? Please give one or two real options 😀
    Thank you

Добавить комментарий

Ваш e-mail не будет опубликован. Обязательные поля помечены *